Lincoln is known for its Indian cuisine, and the Taj Mahal is one of the reasons why.

Often overlooked because of its location in the strip mall at 56th Street and Old Cheney Road, the restaurant is among the city's best, especially for vegetarian and vegan fare.

Taj Mahal is family-owned and operated. Harish Raghani opened it with a partner 14 years ago and took over sole ownership nearly four years after that. You will find Raghani and his wife, Cindy, either out front or in the kitchen.

Raghani said he's thought about moving to a more visible location, but doesn't ponder it for very long.

"Ninety percent of my business is regular customers," Raghani said. "They know exactly where I am."

The Raghanis have maintained their menu excellence since I last wrote about the Taj in March 1999.

As for the atmosphere … well, it's in a strip mall, and there's only so much the couple can do with it. Still, the restaurant is clean and comfortable, and the many plants help make it less sterile.

But people experience the Taj for its food, and not the decor. They're rarely, if ever, disappointed.

The menu features several meat (chicken, lamb, seafood), tandoori (clay oven), biryani (rice) and vegetarian entrees made with traditional Indian spices.

When we asked what was in the gosht madras- lamb cubes in a coconut milk curry sauce- I enjoyed, Raghani named off more than 10 ingredients.

The spices and how they are used are what separates the Taj from the city's other Indian restaurants. My companion's vegetarian dish, aloo matar paneer, for instance, was far sweeter than the same dish she regularly orders at The Oven.

The biggest difference in menu since I last wrote about the restaurant is the addition of vegan fare, which Raghani introduced a few years ago. The Taj is now a leader in vegan food.

The menu includes 16 nonmeat, vegan items and another 15 made with soy-based mock meats, such as "skallops" and "chik'n."

"It's worked out pretty well for us," Raghani said. "The (vegan) menu appeals to a younger crowd, people with allergies or those who are lactose intolerant."

Prices for all entrees range from $11 to $15 for dinner. Dishes are served with a salad. Mulligatawny soup can be substituted for $1.95 more. It's worth the upgrade.

We suggest starting or accompanying each meal with some naan. The paneer naan (stuffed cheese bread, $3.95) is especially popular.

The homemade mango cheesecake ($3.95) with some sweetened chai ($6.50) also is a good way to finish.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.