Jeff Parker knows he has a monumental task ahead of him. Instead of starting anew, the longtime restaurateur bought an established eatery in Lincoln.

Now he and his wife, Emily, are working hard to let diners know the Rib Ranch at 64th and O streets is under new ownership.

“We’re promoting this as a new place,” he said.

Indeed it is — in several ways.

Yes, the decor, menu and sauces are still the same, but the restaurant — now called Parker’s Rib Ranch — is different.

The service has improved and, more importantly, so has the food.

Parker said he and his staff have tweaked the menu, including in how food is prepared (and smoked). It shows. I recently savored some of the restaurant’s meaty St. Louis-style BBQ spare ribs.

The ribs start at $9.99 for four bones, choice of two sides, a mini corn on the cob and a cornbread muffin.

They had  a distinctive smoky flavor, enhanced with Sweet Baby Ray’s rich sauce. They were pretty darn good.

The Parkers took over the Rib Ranch in December. Jeff Parker, a 36-year-old Lincoln native, has 20 years of experience in food service. He most recently worked five years for Famous Dave’s as director of operations for several Midwest locations.

“My intention is not to turn this into a Famous Dave’s,” he said.

Instead, he wants the Rib Ranch to stand on its own merits.

Unlike Dave’s, the Rib Ranch doesn’t sauce all of its menu items. The restaurant serves everything — pulled pork, brisket, chicken, etc. — “naked” (without sauce) except the ribs.

Diners then can choose among four of Sweet Baby Ray’s sauces. Not sure which one to try?

Well, the Rib Ranch provides hungry patrons with a “sauce tour.” A server brings a bowl of steak fries to each table and gives a rundown of the four sauces: house, hot and spicy, Texas Red and Liquid Gold, a southwest mustard sauce. The tour is a nice and welcome touch.

The Rib Ranch offers a variety of BBQ menu items, with dinner prices beginning at $8.99. The restaurant also has other favorites, including steak, chicken fried steak and burgers. Smoked prime rib is available after 5 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

On my visit, I started with some breaded catfish strips ($7.49). Served with fries, the strips were a meal in themselves. I took half of them home with me.

I followed the appetizer with the four-bone meal and picked hot cinnamon apples and house favorite “Bum Steer Romano Potatoes” as my sides. Other side options are mashed potatoes, potato salad, corn on the cob, cole slaw, steamed veggies, fries, baked potato and baked beans.

The dessert menu includes a caramel apple or peach cobbler ($3.99), a Mug Cake (chocolate, strawberry or peach, 99 cents) and homemade carrot cake ($3.50). I didn’t have room for dessert.

If you haven’t been to the Rib Ranch for awhile, I suggest you check it out. There’s a new sheriff in town, and he’s anxious to satisfy your hunger.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.

Dining out

Parker’s Rib Ranch

6440 O St.

Atmosphere: Casual

Specialty: BBQ

Payment: Cash, major credit cards; no checks

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Phone: (402) 467-5110

Notes: Parking, alcohol, takeout, catering (617-6770), children’s menu