COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA — I wouldn’t have waited so long to visit the new casino here had I known its restaurant was so good.

Jack Binion’s Steak House at the Horseshoe Casino is the real deal.

During my Sunday night visit, the eatery hit on all cylinders, from great food to attentive service to a relaxed, semiformal atmosphere.

Open since March, Jack Binion’s (named for the casino’s founder) is an alternative to the Horseshoe’s buffet. It’s open only in the evenings and reservations are encouraged.

The menu, implemented skillfully by chef Cory Guyer, features several juicy steaks, including filets (8 and 10 ounces), New York strip, ribeye, porterhouse and, of course, prime rib (12, 16 and 20 ounces).

I enjoyed an 8-ounce mediumrare filet ($26) that I would go back for in a heartbeat.

Jack Binion’s also has seven seafood selections, including salmon, scallops and lobster tails, as well as a handful of other choice entrees.

My companion went with the veal milanese ($28), which featured several thin slices served with a delightful lemon caper butter sauce.

Entrees range from $22 to $48 — a tad pricey by Lincoln standards — and do not include salad, soup or, even a side dish.

I’ve enjoyed a la carte dining before in bigger cities. It has its pluses and minuses. The biggest plus is it allows you to choose (and share). You’re not forced into taking what the restaurant has decided to accompany its entrees.

There are several choices, ranging from two soups to five salads to nine side dishes. We picked the white cheddar potatoes au gratin ($6) and steamed spinach with garlic ($6). We started our meal with grilled asparagus wrapped in prosciutto ($8) and French onion soup ($7).

The downside is it takes away from presentation — the opportunity for a chef to make his dishes visually attractive. My small filet was served on a giant white plate with no garnish.

We accompanied our meal with a pinot noir called Brancott from Marlborough, New Zealand ($27). The fruity red went well with our entrees. The steakhouse has a varied and extensive wine list, with many available by the glass.

And, oh yes, we finished our meal with a rich, three-layer carrot cake ($8). It was quite sinful.

 The restaurant itself is nice and rather formal, with candles on the tables and cozy booths and well-dressed servers. The only complaint I had was the elevator music coming from the speakers.

Of course, I had no room to complain. My companion and I showed up in shorts and short-sleeved shirts and felt a little out of place. Fortunately, there were other diners who had come off the casino floor that looked like us, so it wasn’t that big of a deal.

Restaurant manager Jennifer Smith said the steakhouse is busy on Friday and Saturday nights and encourages reservations. I would get them regardless if you’re coming from Lincoln.

Jack Binion’s was an enjoyable dining experience. Had we not lost our shirts at the roulette table afterward, it would have been a perfect evening.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.

Jack Binion’s Steak House

2701 23rd Ave.

Council Bluffs, Iowa

Specialty: Steak, seafood

Atmosphere: Formal

Cost: A la carte entrees range from $22 to $48

Payment: Cash, major credit cards; no checks

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Phone: (402) 486-7977

Web site: www.harrahs.com/horseshoe

Notes: Parking, alcohol, reservations encouraged, daily chef’s special

? ? ?Food: 3½ stars

 

Service: 4 stars

Atmosphere: 3 stars

The Last Bite: Bring your wallet. The food is exceptional and worth the one-hour trip, but it’s pricey (by Lincoln standards). The a la carte menu doesn’t allow for presentation, which is why the food scored 3½ stars instead of 4.

Rating system: Outstanding 4 stars; Good 3 stars; Fair or uneven 2 stars; Poor 1 star