Mr. Leno is a fast-food Mexican restaurant, but not with the kind of food usually associated with these kinds of eateries.

Anyone who's eaten at a corporate chain - such as a Taco Bell - knows what I'm talking about.

Taco Bell, for instance, won't have foods with lengua (beef tongue), cabeza (brain), milanesa (breaded fried beef) or nachos made with marinated beef instead of hamburger.

Mr. Leno does, and if you're a fan of authentic Mexican dishes, you should give the new fast-food place a try.

The menu (and quality) will remind diners of foods found at D'Leon's, El Comal and El Chaparro - three exceptional restaurants that excel at authentic fast-food Mexican.

Mr. Leno, located one block east of 70th and O streets, is owned by Arizona transplant Maria Becerra, who runs the place with her three nephews - Jesus, Danny and Tony Salas.

Becerra also owns a Mr. Leno in Phoenix. She made Lincoln her home after visiting relatives here and falling in love with the city.

The restaurant is named for Becerra's father, Magdeleno, who is known for his bushy white mustache. The eatery's logo features a mustachioed jalapeno with a sombrero.

Mr. Leno is open 24 hours, with breakfast available all day. All dishes are made - not put together - after they're ordered.

The menu features 23 combination plates, ranging in price from $5.79 to $6.79. The combos feature entrees - tacos, enchiladas, chimichangas, burritos, etc. - with rice and beans.

Diners also can order tacos, tortas (sandwiches), burritos and tostadas, priced from $2.19 to $4.19.

Mr. Leno is set up like a typical fast-food restaurant, with orders taken at a counter. Patrons retrieve most of their own drinks, plastic utensils, napkins and the homemade green and red hot sauces. Try both sauces - they are very different in flavor and heat.

Photographer Eric Gregory and I stopped in Monday evening for dinner and ordered combination plates. Eric had two carne asada (chopped beef) tacos ($6.79) and I had a lengua burrito and beef taco.

The tacos were brimming with meat, lettuce, guacamole, tomatoes and onions. My burrito was stuffed with shredded (as opposed to cubed) tongue meat.

We enjoyed our meals and said we'd go back. We appreciated that our meals were prepared after we ordered. It takes longer than the assembly-line preparation of corporate chains, but it's worth it.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.