The new Capital City Grill has a variety of steak and seafood options, but you may want to stop in for lunch and try one of the risotto bowls.

They are so novel and so delicious - my co-worker called one a "taste treat" - that the restaurant may want to consider adding them for dinner as well.

Capital City has five risotto bowls. We tried the "Roma," which featured spinach, artichoke, prosciutto, herbs, scallions and tomatoes served over a choice of a three-cheese, basil (our pick) or sun-dried tomato risotto. Wild rice also is an option.

As the name implies, it's served in a bowl. The five different risotto bowls cost between $8.50 and $9.50.

The Harrisburg has been an early customer favorite since the restaurant opened last month. It features shaved prime rib, peppers, onions, wild mushrooms and cream cheese.

Capital City Grill is owned by Omaha attorney Aaron Smeall and Randy Jones, who has 40-plus years in retail.

Smeall worked for 20 years in food service and at one time had ownership in an Omaha Vincenzo's, Jones said. Smeall created Capital City's menu. The restaurant's chef is Perry Kudlacek, who came from Crabby Bill's.

Smeall and Jones know they have a chore in front of them. Five restaurants have been in the Haymarket space since Ground Zero debuted in 1998 - La Paloma, Brazen Head, Baciami, Eighth Street Ironworks and Magnolia.

"It's something we think about," Jones said. "What it comes down to is the food, the service and having people feel comfortable."

They're off to a pretty good start. They need to address some service issues. On my dinner visit, I had to ask for a wine list, and appetizer plates weren't cleared before our entrees arrived.

Capital City may want to look at the menu, making some of the lunch options, such as the risotto bowls and sandwiches, available at dinner.

Otherwise, the atmosphere is good - with a semicasual kind of feel to the place. Candles and black tablecloths are nice touches. And the food is worth checking out.

The dinner menu has a variety of entrees, ranging in price from $8 to $25. Capital City's specialty is the stuffed prime rib - wild mushroom or shrimp and scallop ($24.95).

I enjoyed the shrimp and scallop prime rib with a parmesan risotto. I have to say Smeall has the kitchen putting out some nice risotto that is just right, not clumpy or runny.

Other dishes worth noting include the Chicken Oscar ($16.95), which my companion thoroughly enjoyed, and the house favorite Pork Osso Bucco ($19.95).

The poultry dish featured a grilled chicken breast topped with blue crab, asparagus, gouda and a tarragon bearnaise. The Osso Bucco is a braised pork shank served over parmesan risotto.

My companion and I finished with a complimentary -we were told it was because we called with a reservation - piece of a homemade, no-crust cheesecake, with a chocolate ganache and raspberry drizzle. The ganache glaze is definitely worth paying for.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.