New Fox's Pizza Den serves up a savory sandwich

JEFF KORBELIK / Lincoln Journal Star | Posted: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 6:00 pm

Last Thursday was the first time I got a "wedgie" and liked it. Not the underwear kind, but rather one of the 12 unique sandwiches found at the new Fox's Pizza Den at 16th Street and Old Cheney Road.

A wedgie is like a sandwich, but it's served between halves of a 9-inch pizza crust instead of a hoagie or a bun.

Fox's wedgies cost $6.29, with those containing bacon 50 cents more. A sandwich is easily big enough to feed two.

The menu items target diners who enjoy hot sandwiches but are fed up — literally — with the bread.

Journal Star sports writer Curt McKeever and I split the Italian wedgie, a sandwich with ham, hard salami, melted provolone and mozzarella, green peppers, onions, lettuce, tomato and Italian dressing.

The pizza crust is thin, yet thick enough not to let the ingredients soak through, but not out. It took a little skill to eat it without the fixings slipping out the sides, but once we mastered it, we enjoyed the "wedgie."

Of course, part of it was because we spent 15 minutes laughing about the first sentence of this story, which we came up with seconds after placing our order.

Had we known Fox's had T-shirts that said "Give Me a Wedgie," we might have bought one of those, too.

University of Nebraska-Lincoln graduate Toby Jeffers, 25, opened Fox's on Dec. 15. His store is part of a small chain and is the first Fox's in Nebraska.

The pizzeria's origins date to March 7, 1971, when Jim Fox — with $500, a rented storeroom and a few pieces of used equipment rescued from the snow and ice of a Pittsburgh scrapyard — fulfilled his lifelong dream of opening his own restaurant in his hometown of Pitcairn, Pa.

As the story goes, Fox slid his first pizza from the oven at 4 p.m., completely unaware he'd be sold out six hours later.

Fox opened a second Pizza Den in nearby Harrison and a third in East Pittsburgh. He incorporated in 1974. Today, there are more than 200 franchises in 19 states with annual sales topping $60 million.

Jeffers, who earned his degrees in finance and economics, has his family to thank for his business venture.

He grew up in North Platte, where his family operates an A&W restaurant. The place is pretty popular because the family made it more than just another fast-food joint. His mother decorated it in a 1950s and '60s theme, similar to what Rock 'n' Roll Runza was like when it was open in Lincoln.

Jeffers sold his portion of the A&W to help finance Fox's. He decided on the chain after careful research. The franchise was one of six he was considering.

Fox called Jeffers back within 24 hours after the Lincoln man first made contact. He invited Jeffers to Pennsylvania to check out the store and the concept.

"He had a really good image and was really respected by his neighbors," Jeffers said.

What really sold Jeffers was the menu. In addition to pizza, which is available in five sizes, Fox's sells stromboli (Italian turnovers), hoagies, salads and the famed wedgies.

My co-worker tried Fox's "chicken rancher pizza," one of eight gourmet pies. What set it apart from other pies in town was a sweet ranch dressing as one of the ingredients.

Pizzas cost between $4.99 (9-inch) and $18.99 (24x12-inch). Fox's double deals are quite tempting. A one-topping medium (12 inches) pizza is $8.99. Two of them, under the double deal, are $13.49.

So far, Jeffers said, the gourmet pizzas, especially the steak and chicken ranchers, and the wedgies are early favorites.

As are the chicken and steak fry salads. Costing $5.49, the salads feature seasoned fries in addition to the meats and usual tossed salad ingredients. The fries are another unique touch.

Fox's has limited seating. It's primarily a takeout and delivery place. Jeffers said he's delivering to the 68512 and 68516 zip codes but will go beyond depending on the location.

A $7 minimum order is required for delivery, meaning you may have to get "two" wedgies.

And like it.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.

Fox's Pizza Den

1600 Normandy Court, Suite 100

Atmosphere: Casual

Web site: www.foxspizza.com

Notes: Parking, takeout, limited delivery ($7 minimum), no alcohol; catering