Tony Diaz De Leon's explanation is simple: The reason his family's fast-food Mexican restaurant, D'Leon's, is so popular is because "people like our food." "Like" may be an understatement. "Love" is probably more accurate.

D'Leon's has become one the top Mexican eateries in the city since its 24-hour drive-through opened on West O Street in December 2003.

It's rare to see fewer than three cars in the drive-through any time of the day, and at peak times — lunch, dinner and after the bars close — a line extends onto O Street.

D'Leon's food has a taste and style unlike any other in Lincoln.

"Authentic" is often overused in describing food, but in this case it's appropriate. The entrees I've had remind me of fare I've eaten in Mexico, fitting since the De Leon family is from there.

But De Leon said he received a lot of requests to open a dine-in location, and the family responded.

Earlier this month, D'Leon's opened a dine-in/drive-through location at 1221 N. 27th St. (27th and Dudley streets). The site previously housed a Vietnamese restaurant; a long time ago, it was a Burger King.

There's more good news: The family will open a second dine-in/drive-through location, at 7300 S. 13th St., near Lincoln Southwest High School, within the next month.

Neither new place is full-service. Walk-in customers order at the counter, get a number and wait for the number to be called.

Food is served in Styrofoam boxes for to-go orders or on Styrofoam plates for those staying. The silverware is plastic.

But the advantage to dining in is being able to eat the food while it's hot.

The menu at the new D'Leon's is the same. There are burritos, tortas (sandwiches), tacos, enchiladas and tostadas. All are family recipes.

The best deals are the combination plates. Various menu items are paired with rice and beans, with prices ranging from $5.29 to $6.29.

There are several little things that make D'Leon's so appealing: The beef is shredded, not ground; marinated pork (adobada) is available, as is steak (carne asada) and fish (for tacos and tortas).

I tend to order the No. 7 — two beef burritos with rice and beans ($5.74). The spiced shredded beef is accented with peppers and wrapped in a flour tortilla.

This time around, I went with No. 16, the adobada plate ($5.74). The marinated pork came with lettuce, tomatoes and guacamole and  a giant flour tortilla served on the side.

My companion ordered No. 21, or two tamales. Tamales are tricky and not always done well, but these were some of the best I've had in Lincoln.

Of course, I've never had a bad experience at D'Leon's. I'm one of those people who "like" the family's cooking.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.

Dining Out

D'Leon's

1221 N. 27th St.

Atmosphere: Casual

Specialty: Mexican

Payment: Cash, checks, Visa, Mastercard

Hours: 8 a.m.-1 a.m. daily (drive-through open 24 hours a day)

Phone: (402) 474-7100

Notes: Parking, drive-through, takeout, no alcohol