Seasoned to Taste: Green Beans with Shallots and Vermouth

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Among the many things we have to be thankful for are the great cooks we’ve known. These are the people, both female and male, who have been touched with a gift, and praise be, they share the products of their miraculous labors with the rest of us. These are the folks who just KNOW that a little more or less of this or that or just this flick with the rolling pin or just that volume of egg whites are what will make everything just right. And these days when so many things seem to be going wrong, just about anything that comes out just right seems especially treasured.

Many of these creative cooks are an inspiration, and not only because of what they crank out of their kitchens, but how they do it. I’m not talking technique here, I’m talking about an attitude that’s amazing. In the midst of what for the rest of us is holiday hysteria or culinary calamity, these extraordinary examples are laughing, filling their kitchens with a joy that flavors everything, no matter how it turns out.

I have been blessed to witness the wonder produced by three such cooks, and since Shirley and Katherine are no longer with us I’m triply grateful for Dominique. She carries the same spirit into her kitchen, and in the midst of kids and cooking and chaotic comings and goings she not only makes magical meals, she makes it fun!

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So this Thanksgiving I’m channeling the calm confidence, if not the latent cooking skill, of these three exemplars. Instead of a trial or a test, this Thanksgiving dinner is going to be terrific.

And part of what’s going to help make it so, besides a change in attitude, is using some recipes that can be done in part ahead of time. Maybe my three stars could do it all at once, but I need all the help I can get!

So I’ll rely on the help of the Cook’s Illustrated test kitchen for a way to make the green beans of my dreams. Bright green, crisp-tender, with just the right crunch of crispy shallots — these are the beans somebody was emulating when they conjured up the green bean casserole of our childhoods. This recipe lets you make the real deal mostly ahead of time (and it’s way better for you healthwise to boot). And while this recipe alone may not elevate us to the great cook level, it can help ensure that we have time to remember that the most important ingredients in any holiday recipe are love and laughter!

Make-Ahead Green Beans with Shallots and Vermouth

The Beans

1 teaspoon table salt

1 pound green beans, stem ends snapped off

Bring 2½ quarts water to boil in large saucepan over high heat; add salt and green beans, return to boil and cook until beans are bright green and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Meanwhile, fill large bowl with ice water. Drain beans in colander and transfer beans immediately to ice water. When beans no longer feel warm to touch, drain in colander again and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Transfer beans to gallon-sized zipper-lock bag, seal and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days. Serves 4 to 6. Can easily be doubled or tripled. To blanch, dress and serve the beans without holding them first in the refrigerator, increase the blanching time to 5 to 6 minutes and don’t bother shocking them in ice water. Instead, quickly arrange the warm beans on a serving platter and top with the sauce you’ve prepared as the beans blanch.

The Beans with Shallots and Vermouth

1 teaspoon table salt

1 pound blanched green beans as prepared above

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 large shallots, sliced thin (about 2 cups)

table salt and ground black pepper

2 tablespoons dry vermouth

Note: Tongs are the tool best suited to tossing the beans in the pan and arranging them on the platter.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in small skillet over medium heat until foaming; add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, fragrant and just crisp around the edges, about 10 minutes. Set skillet aside.

Heat ¼ cup water and beans in 12-inch skillet over high heat; cook, tossing frequently, until beans are warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and arrange neatly on warm serving platter. Meanwhile, return skillet with shallots to high heat, stir in vermouth, and bring to simmer. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon at a time; season with salt and pepper to taste. Top beans with shallots and sauce and serve immediately.

Source: Cook’s Illustrated

Lynne Ireland lives to eat and welcomes comments and questions from others who do (or don’t). Contact her at savor@journalstar.com.