Hunter's

WACO — Brian Tomes grew up on a farm in Utica and remembers what a big deal it was to go with his family to Hunter’s in nearby Waco.

Who could have guessed that someday he would own that restaurant and lounge?

Sure enough, after almost seven years away from the restaurant business, Tomes, a former director of operations at Misty’s, is back at it again. In December, he purchased Hunter’s, which had closed a few months earlier. He re-opened it in March.

Since then, Hunter’s quickly has become known for its tasty and inexpensive steaks — a 12-ounce New York Strip is $13.95 — and its prime rib on Friday and Saturday nights.   

Tomes said his older brother, who farms in Utica, approached him first about returning to the restaurant business.

“He told me, ‘You ought to look at it and bring it back to life,’” Tomes said.

The village, looking for someone to keep the keno operation at the restaurant/lounge going, contacted him next.

“I think they were starting to miss the revenue,” Tomes said with chuckle.

Tomes worked at Misty’s for 15 years and stepped away from food service in 2001 when Grace Milton sold the popular Lincoln steakhouse. Bob and Grace Milton opened Misty’s in 1962. Bob passed away in 1998.

“During my sabbatical, I realized how much I enjoyed doing this,” Tomes said. “The hours are long, but it’s fun.

“The real fun part is talking to the people,” he added. “I learned that from Bob and Grace, to get out there and say hello.”

Hunter’s is the only restaurant in Waco. After purchasing it, Tomes spent the next 2½ months in getting it back into shape. Most of the work was done in the kitchen.

The restaurant has two large dining areas, with one room quite a bit more loungier than the other — I half-expected the ghost of Frank Sinatra to pop up.

In building his menu, Tomes relied on his experience. He kept it small, offering two steak options (top sirloin, New York), a chicken entree and jumbo shrimp. He also has tilapia, but plans to replace it with a fresh fish of the day. Entrees run from $9 to $14.

Prime rib is available on Friday and Saturday nights, costing $14.95 (8 ounces) and $18.95 (12 ounces).

Tomes buys his steaks from the Utica butcher, and his prime rib is certified Angus beef from Pegler.  

His menu also features eight burgers and sandwiches, costing $5 to $7, and a variety of appetizers, including gizzards ($4.95) — a house favorite because they are breaded on site. My companions and I had some and highly recommend them.

We stopped in on a busy Friday night. Both dining rooms were nearly full at 6:15 p.m., so we suggest calling for reservations.

For entrees, we tried the prime rib, the New York strip and the night’s special: grilled wild salmon with homemade ginger sauce on the side ($11.95).

Each entree was served with a choice of soup or salad. The steak and prime rib came with a choice of potato.

I had the New York strip. Grilled medium rare, it was one of the best steaks I’ve had in awhile. I can see why Hunter’s is quickly gaining in popularity.

For dessert, we shared slices of homemade mixed berry and apple pie ($2.25 each).

Hunter’s doesn’t have a wine list, but it does have a variety of import beers, including Guinness, Bass and Heineken, as well several domestic choices. No beer is on tap, but Tomes is looking into that.

We thoroughly enjoyed our experience. It also was nice to see Tomes back in the restaurant business. I’m sure Waco is as glad to have him as he is being there.

Reach Jeff Korbelik at 473-7213 or jkorbelik@journalstar.com.