Have a blast at Lake Havasu in Arizona
LAKE HAVASU CITY, Ariz. — With winter rain and fog on the horizon, my husband, Joe, and I ripped a page from a snowbird’s itinerary, hitched the boat to the truck and headed to sunny Arizona. Our winter destination was Lake Havasu City, where we spent a peaceful week cruising under the warm desert sun and exploring the spectacular Colorado River. Ah, but isn’t Lake Havasu a hard-core party scene with loud music, nearly nekkid people and screaming Jet Skis?
Not in winter, it isn’t.
If you are willing to trade heat for tranquility, winter is the time to do it. Temperatures can typically be 70 degrees, as opposed to 100 degrees in summer.
During our November visit, we never waited for a restaurant table. Even the boat ramps were sparsely populated with a few low-key fishermen and placid off-season tourists. The lake water was a bit too chilly to swim comfortably, but except for a few windy days, the boating was excellent.
The highlight of our trip was a personal watercraft cruise through Topock Gorge, a stunning stretch of the Colorado River in the Havasu National Wildlife Refuge just north of Lake Havasu.
It felt as though we were floating through a painting.
Massive red and gold cliffs jutted from the deep and fast-moving river. Unique desert rock formations glowed under the sun in stark contrast to the deep blue sky. It was the quintessential Western desert panorama of water, stone and sky.
We didn’t see them but we were told that bighorn sheep, coyotes and burros live in the refuge.
On the trip back down the river, we moored on the nearly deserted Sand Bar, a famous watery elbow where hundreds of people anchor their boats together and party on warm weekends such as Memorial Day.
On this day, it was the very picture of serenity. But don’t forget to purchase a postcard at the visitors center that shows an aerial picture of the Sand Bar on a packed weekend. You won’t believe it: The river nearly vanishes beneath a crazy quilt of boats.
If you don’t own a boat or a personal watercraft, rent one in Lake Havasu City or take one of the several guided boat tours into Topock Gorge. You won’t regret it.
When the wind blew the lake’s surface into a spine-jarring chop by midweek, we exchanged our sea legs for walking shoes and turned our attention toward town.
The city is famous for its 174-year-old London Bridge, a granite span that town founder Robert McCulloch Sr. bought in England in 1968, dismantled and shipped to the United States via the Panama Canal.
After the numbered stones arrived In Lake Havasu City, McCulloch reconstructed the bridge on dry land and dredged a channel that forever transformed a peninsula into an island. (For all the construction details, visit the Lake Havasu Museum of History.)
The bridge and canal are the heart of the town’s thriving tourist district. Shops, restaurants, parks, beaches, campgrounds, resorts, businesses that offer watercraft rentals and boat tours line both sides of Bridgewater Channel.
Unfortunately, the once-vibrant English Village, a replica of a London-style neighborhood erected at the base of the bridge, has grown shabby. That may soon change. During our visit, city leaders voted to purchase and restore the village. Regardless, the visitors center is in the Village, and it’s well worth a stop to pick up its day-trip recommendations, maps and memorabilia.
We didn’t seek out Lake Havasu City’s haute cuisine but we didn’t go hungry.
Try the Javelina Cantina on the Island, as the locals refer to the peninsula. It has a nice outdoor patio that faces the canal, excellent grilled fish tacos and an impressive margarita menu. Or travel a bit farther into the Island and dine at Juicy’s Noodles Italian Grill. The house specialty of deep-fried fettuccine alfredo was quite tasty. (In case you are wondering, as we did, it comes in a loaf.)
If you have exhausted the city’s attractions and the lake’s surface still resembles a latte, the region offers plenty of distractions.
Las Vegas is a three-hour drive from Lake Havasu, and we broke up the trip with a stop at Hoover Dam, a genuine engineering marvel. We were among the last tourists allowed to drive over the dam. State crews are building a new bridge over the Colorado River and once it opens, the dam will be closed to traffic.
On our last day in Arizona we visited the locally renowned and remote Nellie E. Saloon, better known as the Desert Bar.
Located five miles off the main highway south of Lake Havasu City on a rough gravel road, the bar is open only on weekend days from October through March. (Why? Summers here are hotter than mama’s frying pan, and the bar runs on solar power.)
The Desert Bar is an eclectic architectural mishmash of corrugated steel, wood and ingenuity. The saloon windows are made of old glass refrigerator doors. The outdoor bar stools resemble tractor seats. There are chairs constructed entirely out of horseshoes. In the parking lot, the owner built a solid steel church facade that serves as a landmark and photo opportunity.
It was worth the bumpy drive just to see the place.
But don’t come to the Desert Bar hungry. We’ve had better food at a Little League game.
Don’t drink too much at the Desert Bar, either. The trip down the dirt-and-rock path from the bathroom could prove hazardous.
Besides, you’ll want all your limbs in working order when the wind dies down and the lake beckons once again.
If you go
* How to get there: Commercial airlines fly into the city’s airport but it’s usually cheaper to fly in to Las Vegas and drive approximately three hours to Lake Havasu.
* Where to stay: We were lucky to stay in a relative’s beautiful vacation home. But the city has hundreds of hotel rooms, condos, vacation rental houses and camping sites. Consult with the Lake Havasu Convention and Visitors Bureau (see below) or one of the city’s numerous property management companies.
* Boating tips: Before you motor up the Colorado River for a tour of the famous Topock Gorge, consult with local marina operators or experienced boaters to determine the safest route. The channel and water levels can change dramatically with the season, and it’s easy to ground your craft in shifting sands and shallow water. (In other words, there’s a reason why many Lake Havasu boaters buy ungrounding insurance, which is something like AAA on water.)
* Tourist Information: Call or visit the Web site for the Lake Havasu Convention and Visitors Bureau, at (928) 453-3444 or www.golakehavasu.com.
Not in winter, it isn’t.
If you are willing to trade heat for tranquility, winter is the time to do it. Temperatures can typically be 70 degrees, as opposed to 100 degrees in summer.
During our November visit, we never waited for a restaurant table. Even the boat ramps were sparsely populated with a few low-key fishermen and placid off-season tourists. The lake water was a bit too chilly to swim comfortably, but except for a few windy days, the boating was excellent.
The highlight of our trip was a personal watercraft cruise through Topock Gorge, a stunning stretch of the Colorado River in the Havasu National Wildlife Refuge just north of Lake Havasu.
It felt as though we were floating through a painting.
Massive red and gold cliffs jutted from the deep and fast-moving river. Unique desert rock formations glowed under the sun in stark contrast to the deep blue sky. It was the quintessential Western desert panorama of water, stone and sky.
We didn’t see them but we were told that bighorn sheep, coyotes and burros live in the refuge.
On the trip back down the river, we moored on the nearly deserted Sand Bar, a famous watery elbow where hundreds of people anchor their boats together and party on warm weekends such as Memorial Day.
On this day, it was the very picture of serenity. But don’t forget to purchase a postcard at the visitors center that shows an aerial picture of the Sand Bar on a packed weekend. You won’t believe it: The river nearly vanishes beneath a crazy quilt of boats.
If you don’t own a boat or a personal watercraft, rent one in Lake Havasu City or take one of the several guided boat tours into Topock Gorge. You won’t regret it.
When the wind blew the lake’s surface into a spine-jarring chop by midweek, we exchanged our sea legs for walking shoes and turned our attention toward town.
The city is famous for its 174-year-old London Bridge, a granite span that town founder Robert McCulloch Sr. bought in England in 1968, dismantled and shipped to the United States via the Panama Canal.
After the numbered stones arrived In Lake Havasu City, McCulloch reconstructed the bridge on dry land and dredged a channel that forever transformed a peninsula into an island. (For all the construction details, visit the Lake Havasu Museum of History.)
The bridge and canal are the heart of the town’s thriving tourist district. Shops, restaurants, parks, beaches, campgrounds, resorts, businesses that offer watercraft rentals and boat tours line both sides of Bridgewater Channel.
Unfortunately, the once-vibrant English Village, a replica of a London-style neighborhood erected at the base of the bridge, has grown shabby. That may soon change. During our visit, city leaders voted to purchase and restore the village. Regardless, the visitors center is in the Village, and it’s well worth a stop to pick up its day-trip recommendations, maps and memorabilia.
We didn’t seek out Lake Havasu City’s haute cuisine but we didn’t go hungry.
Try the Javelina Cantina on the Island, as the locals refer to the peninsula. It has a nice outdoor patio that faces the canal, excellent grilled fish tacos and an impressive margarita menu. Or travel a bit farther into the Island and dine at Juicy’s Noodles Italian Grill. The house specialty of deep-fried fettuccine alfredo was quite tasty. (In case you are wondering, as we did, it comes in a loaf.)
If you have exhausted the city’s attractions and the lake’s surface still resembles a latte, the region offers plenty of distractions.
Las Vegas is a three-hour drive from Lake Havasu, and we broke up the trip with a stop at Hoover Dam, a genuine engineering marvel. We were among the last tourists allowed to drive over the dam. State crews are building a new bridge over the Colorado River and once it opens, the dam will be closed to traffic.
On our last day in Arizona we visited the locally renowned and remote Nellie E. Saloon, better known as the Desert Bar.
Located five miles off the main highway south of Lake Havasu City on a rough gravel road, the bar is open only on weekend days from October through March. (Why? Summers here are hotter than mama’s frying pan, and the bar runs on solar power.)
The Desert Bar is an eclectic architectural mishmash of corrugated steel, wood and ingenuity. The saloon windows are made of old glass refrigerator doors. The outdoor bar stools resemble tractor seats. There are chairs constructed entirely out of horseshoes. In the parking lot, the owner built a solid steel church facade that serves as a landmark and photo opportunity.
It was worth the bumpy drive just to see the place.
But don’t come to the Desert Bar hungry. We’ve had better food at a Little League game.
Don’t drink too much at the Desert Bar, either. The trip down the dirt-and-rock path from the bathroom could prove hazardous.
Besides, you’ll want all your limbs in working order when the wind dies down and the lake beckons once again.
If you go
* How to get there: Commercial airlines fly into the city’s airport but it’s usually cheaper to fly in to Las Vegas and drive approximately three hours to Lake Havasu.
* Where to stay: We were lucky to stay in a relative’s beautiful vacation home. But the city has hundreds of hotel rooms, condos, vacation rental houses and camping sites. Consult with the Lake Havasu Convention and Visitors Bureau (see below) or one of the city’s numerous property management companies.
* Boating tips: Before you motor up the Colorado River for a tour of the famous Topock Gorge, consult with local marina operators or experienced boaters to determine the safest route. The channel and water levels can change dramatically with the season, and it’s easy to ground your craft in shifting sands and shallow water. (In other words, there’s a reason why many Lake Havasu boaters buy ungrounding insurance, which is something like AAA on water.)
* Tourist Information: Call or visit the Web site for the Lake Havasu Convention and Visitors Bureau, at (928) 453-3444 or www.golakehavasu.com.
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