Andorra a haven in the Pyrenees
What tiny princedom contains some of the most spectacular scenery and the best skiing in the Pyrenees? Where are remote hiking trails and quaint mountain villages just a few minutes away from urban sprawl, luxury shopping, and traffic jams?
The answer is Andorra. Located between France and Spain, the Principality of Andorra comprises 468 square kilometers of glorious mountains and rivers coupled with a booming economy. Tourism is the major industry of this democratic princedom along with duty-free shopping, sheep, timber, tobacco, and banking. For a kaleidoscope adventure of mountain sports, shopping, and thermal water leisure, Andorra is the place to go.
How to get there
The only way to reach Andorra is by road, either from France or Spain. Not for the faint-hearted, the trip itself is part of the fun. Any valid passport is acceptable and the border crossing typically presents no problem or delay. One simply drives through the checkpoint unless flagged down by a customs official. Driving is not recommended during the fall and winter months as the mountain roads, although very well maintained, are nonetheless treacherous due to the high altitudes and unstable weather. Even in the summer fog, trucks, cars and bicycles can create challenging conditions. There are passing lanes throughout, but be prepared for delays as one passes through a series of small towns with traffic circles.
We’ve driven twice to Andorra from France, starting from Montpellier, where there are regular flights to and from Paris and car rentals are available. There are several options but all routes go west. We suggest taking the highway bypass around Carcassonne, which offers a stop for a tremendous view of the old walled city.
Beyond Carcasonne, we recommend leaving the highway for a more scenic route on N113 that passes through fields of sunflowers in full bloom during the summer months and then heading south on N20.
For the most direct route, take the tunnel bypass around Foix, a charming small city interesting enough for a leisurely lunch if one is not in a hurry; traffic bottlenecks are typical of most French towns, and parking may be difficult.
As one continues south towards Andorra the road becomes quite steep with breathtaking vistas of the Pyrenees. The main auto route from France, the CG2, passes through the amazing Port d’Envalira, the highest pass in the Pyrenees at 7,900 feet. Near the border there is choice between a tunnel bypass, which costs five euros, and the regular road full of switchbacks. We opt for the tunnel since it is by far the fastest and easiest route. Our destination, Les Escaldes, which merges into Andorra la Vella, the capital city of Andorra, is a mere five and one-half hours of beautiful driving from Montpellier. Another choice would be to fly or take the train from Paris to Toulouse and from there proceed south.
Where to stay
Andorra la Vella is the largest town situated at an altitude of just over 3,280 feet in the valley of the Enclar mountain range, which rises up to 7,870 feet. Unfortunately, the capital also is surrounded by heavy traffic and construction projects as Andorra is in a redevelopment boom. Andorra is located at the confluence of three raging mountain rivers, Gran Valira, Valira del Oriente and the Valira del Norte, jackhammers and motors are often at least muffled by white noise.
The clash between modern and traditional can be disconcerting. Most of the new architecture is shockingly contemporary, hugely futuristic in scope.
The city, which merges with Les Escaldes just north of the valley, has many hotels. Shop around for the best deal. We have stayed in the Eurohotel in Les Escaldes and have found it satisfactory if not entirely worthy of its three-star rating. The location is ideal (once you’ve found it) since it is walking distance from the famous spa Le Caldea, the main street of shops and restaurants (Avinguda de Meritxell, which links to Andorra la Vella) and hiking paths.
We had a large room with a balcony facing the Pyrenees, so we enjoyed the view and the refreshing mountain river below. The clientele is varied; we noticed English, Dutch, Spanish, French and a few children. We were the only Americans. We paid about 80 euros ($90) a night, which included a copious breakfast buffet of sausage, ham, eggs, cheese, fruit, cereal, yogurt, bread, sweet rolls, as well as juice, coffee, tea.
There is no air conditioning nor ceiling fans, however, and when the weather becomes excessively hot as it was this summer, falling asleep may prove difficult even though it does cool off at night and the balcony doors may remain open. The Eurohotel parking garage was full the day we arrived so we ended up in a secure parking area nearby that cost 13 euros a day (about $15), a bit cheaper than at the hotel.
What to do
Les Escaldes is a fast-developing cosmopolitan city and home of an important thermal center, Le Caldea, which towers over the valley like a modern glass cathedral calling all water worshipers. The name Les Escaldes is derived from the existence of the sulphurous springs that bubble up from the earth’s depths reaching a temperature of 61 degrees C.
Le Caldea focuses on the pleasures of water in all its forms, from steam to ice, from Roman to Japanese culture. Its warm thermal waters, high in sodium and sulphur, are oily like thermal plankton and are promoted as having a healing effect. Le Caldea offers a number of services from the general admission pass of 30 euros ($38) for three hours in the Thermal Leisure Center to the more exclusive Caldea Club which starts at 69 euros (about $75). This time we bought three-day passes to the Thermal Leisure Area, the cheapest and most basic offering, which includes the indoor and outdoor pools, Roman baths, steam sauna, aqua massage, Icelandic bath, sirocco bath of hot air and Jacuzzis all in a mountain environment. Three hours was plenty of time to enjoy the water and sunbathe. We were advised to come in the morning to avoid the crowds as Le Caldea is extremely popular with tour groups, families, and people of all ages. If one wants a more serene experience, then the Club is the next level, providing a steam Aztec bath, a grapefruit bath, water beds, aquatic bar and terrace with supplementary services, such as massage, hydrothermal beauty and anti-cellulite treatments at extra cost.
Two years ago we took the plunge and bought a day pass at the Club, which included massages and mud bath.(Be prepared to take off your swimsuit and don a disposable, one-size-fits-all thong.) We found the experience restful and professional, and we enjoyed being pampered in a luxurious, private setting. For prices, reservations, and information check the Caldea Web site (www.caldea.ad). Le Caldea also has a restaurant and a number of small boutiques.
Shopping
Avinguday de Mertzell winds from Andorra la Vella to Les Escaldes and is characterized by bustling, commercial vitality that one may find either exciting or irritating. This main artery is lined with shops that sell electronics, Havana cigars, Philippine tobacco, professional sports equipment, fashion, fine jewelry, cosmetics and perfume, as well as hotels, restaurants and an occasional grocery. The streets are clogged with noisy traffic; the sidewalks are filled with window shoppers and strollers along with serious shoppers who come from all over Europe to avoid sales taxes and the VAT (valued added tax).
We found particularly attractive sports equipment for hiking, biking, camping, fishing and climbing. The quality is outstanding, and the prices reasonable, often cheaper than in the States or in France. Perfume and cosmetics are also a bargain, as well as shoes, watches and jewelry.
Hiking
Some of the best hiking and skiing is in the Les Escaldes area. The paths are readily accessible, and there is no need to drive to the trailheads, whereas the ski slopes are typically 11 to 20 kilometers away. We did two challenging hikes and enjoyed them both, although the terrain was difficult at times and the weather hot. We purchased a detailed map at a sports shop and managed to make do along with a compass, which is a necessity. The trails are numbered, color-coded and well-marked. Yellow dots indicate local trails, whereas the red and white ones are more established and cross into France and Spain. Much of this information is available on the Internet along with the location of convenient stopping points. They don’t have restrooms, but they do provide shade, room to eat and sleep, and sometimes even supplies, such as trash bags, food and toilet paper left behind by fellow hikers. Although we were well equipped, we still managed to get lost on our first hike. Unlike the Rockies, the trails are not dirt but often rough stone, cobblestone, or loose stone so we we purchased some Leki titanium poles as walking sticks for 58 euros (about $65), roughly half the U.S. price.
We ran across occasional hikers on both days but most of the time had nature all to ourselves with plenty of dramatic scenery. We saw rivers, waterfalls, meadows, forests and magnificent panoramic views along with a few herds of cows with bell collars.
Tips
Driving is on the right side of the road. Gas is very expensive in France and Spain (around $5.85 a gallon) but much cheaper in Andorra (about $3.75). Arrange to fill up the tank in Andorra to cut costs. If driving is not your thing, buses from France to Andorra leave from the railway stops of L’Hospitalet, La Tour de Caro and Ax-les-Thermes. Buses leave Spain from Barcelona, Burgos, Madrid, Tarragona, Tuy, Valladolid, and Azragoza.
Sports equipment is high quality and less expensive in Andorra so come with an empty suitcase (or buy more luggage) and purchase shoes, clothing, backpacks, sleeping bags and tents on site.
As far as we know, there is no fine dining in Andorra, and restaurants are pricey, although there is American fast food, such as McDonald’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and Burger King, which offer home delivery!
At any rate, we opted to buy our own food at grocery stores and make picnics either on our hotel balcony or in the mountains. The produce is fresh and delicious; all alcohol is MUCH cheaper in Andorra than in Europe or the States. We were content with ham and cheese sandwiches on fresh baguettes with avocados and tomatoes, sweet, ripe peaches and nectarines and chilled Pescador, a crisp, bubbly white wine, the Andorran version of champagne. We never could find a bag of ice so we always got a pitcher of ice from our hotel bar during the day.
The rhythm of life is much different in Europe than in the United States. In general, stores open around 10 a.m. and close from 2 to 4 p.m. and reopen again until around 8 p.m. Typically lunch runs from 1 to 2:30 p.m., with dinner in no earlier than 8.
Andorra’s cultural or artistic activity is limited, and if you’re looking for old-world grace and elegance you’ll be disappointed. A number of smaller picturesque villages may be worth visiting if you long to escape the clamor of Les Escaldes and Andorra la Vella. In addition there are some museums, such as the National Automobile Museum, the Andorran Postal Museum and the Areny-Plandolit House Museum located outside the capital that we did not see but might be interesting. It also is possible to visit three refurbished historical houses in three different villages that give an idea of traditional life in Andorra prior to the 20th century. Information is available at www.andorra.ad, www.museus.ad, and at the Tourist Center.
Le Tour de France is broadcast live from France in Andorra, so we could follow it in the comfort of our hotel room during the siesta hours. None of it is translated into English, but it’s still the best authentic coverage one can find beyond being there.
Skiing season begins around December and lasts through March. Hiking season begins after the snowfall and continues through October. Andorra’s village festivals are usually from July to September. Hotels are fullest in July and August and for skiing.
If mountain hiking is too strenuous, try taking the cami, a winding cobblestone path that gives a birds-eye view of Les Escaldes and Andorra la Vella from clean neighborhoods of apartments, houses and tobacco fields. The locals use the path for dog walking, jogging and leisurely strolls. The nearest access point for us was just a block away from our hotel.
The population of Andorra, comprised mostly of Spanish followed by Andorran and French, speak Catalan, Spanish and French. Most service personnel in hotels and shops understand and speak some English but it’s wise to know a few basic greetings in Catalan.
Using the telephone is not cheap. To make a call one must purchase a telephone card for six euros (about $8) which is good for 100 units. Placing a call to the U.S. will cost three units plus another one every six seconds! A rather complicated, expensive system that we eventually gave up on.
Internet access is no joy, either. We finally located a “cyber-café” with Wi-Fi, but it crashed on us repeatedly. Expect to pay about $4 an hour for access with moderate speed.
Andorra is a place that has grown on us, making each new visit a journey of discovery. But it’s not for everyone; the juxtaposition between urban development and nature may be too jarring for some to make the strenuous trip worth the effort.
Julia Lauer-Chéenne is an artist, world traveler and professor of language at UNL. She may be reached at jcheenne@earthlink.net.
The answer is Andorra. Located between France and Spain, the Principality of Andorra comprises 468 square kilometers of glorious mountains and rivers coupled with a booming economy. Tourism is the major industry of this democratic princedom along with duty-free shopping, sheep, timber, tobacco, and banking. For a kaleidoscope adventure of mountain sports, shopping, and thermal water leisure, Andorra is the place to go.
How to get there
The only way to reach Andorra is by road, either from France or Spain. Not for the faint-hearted, the trip itself is part of the fun. Any valid passport is acceptable and the border crossing typically presents no problem or delay. One simply drives through the checkpoint unless flagged down by a customs official. Driving is not recommended during the fall and winter months as the mountain roads, although very well maintained, are nonetheless treacherous due to the high altitudes and unstable weather. Even in the summer fog, trucks, cars and bicycles can create challenging conditions. There are passing lanes throughout, but be prepared for delays as one passes through a series of small towns with traffic circles.
We’ve driven twice to Andorra from France, starting from Montpellier, where there are regular flights to and from Paris and car rentals are available. There are several options but all routes go west. We suggest taking the highway bypass around Carcassonne, which offers a stop for a tremendous view of the old walled city.
Beyond Carcasonne, we recommend leaving the highway for a more scenic route on N113 that passes through fields of sunflowers in full bloom during the summer months and then heading south on N20.
For the most direct route, take the tunnel bypass around Foix, a charming small city interesting enough for a leisurely lunch if one is not in a hurry; traffic bottlenecks are typical of most French towns, and parking may be difficult.
As one continues south towards Andorra the road becomes quite steep with breathtaking vistas of the Pyrenees. The main auto route from France, the CG2, passes through the amazing Port d’Envalira, the highest pass in the Pyrenees at 7,900 feet. Near the border there is choice between a tunnel bypass, which costs five euros, and the regular road full of switchbacks. We opt for the tunnel since it is by far the fastest and easiest route. Our destination, Les Escaldes, which merges into Andorra la Vella, the capital city of Andorra, is a mere five and one-half hours of beautiful driving from Montpellier. Another choice would be to fly or take the train from Paris to Toulouse and from there proceed south.
Where to stay
Andorra la Vella is the largest town situated at an altitude of just over 3,280 feet in the valley of the Enclar mountain range, which rises up to 7,870 feet. Unfortunately, the capital also is surrounded by heavy traffic and construction projects as Andorra is in a redevelopment boom. Andorra is located at the confluence of three raging mountain rivers, Gran Valira, Valira del Oriente and the Valira del Norte, jackhammers and motors are often at least muffled by white noise.
The clash between modern and traditional can be disconcerting. Most of the new architecture is shockingly contemporary, hugely futuristic in scope.
The city, which merges with Les Escaldes just north of the valley, has many hotels. Shop around for the best deal. We have stayed in the Eurohotel in Les Escaldes and have found it satisfactory if not entirely worthy of its three-star rating. The location is ideal (once you’ve found it) since it is walking distance from the famous spa Le Caldea, the main street of shops and restaurants (Avinguda de Meritxell, which links to Andorra la Vella) and hiking paths.
We had a large room with a balcony facing the Pyrenees, so we enjoyed the view and the refreshing mountain river below. The clientele is varied; we noticed English, Dutch, Spanish, French and a few children. We were the only Americans. We paid about 80 euros ($90) a night, which included a copious breakfast buffet of sausage, ham, eggs, cheese, fruit, cereal, yogurt, bread, sweet rolls, as well as juice, coffee, tea.
There is no air conditioning nor ceiling fans, however, and when the weather becomes excessively hot as it was this summer, falling asleep may prove difficult even though it does cool off at night and the balcony doors may remain open. The Eurohotel parking garage was full the day we arrived so we ended up in a secure parking area nearby that cost 13 euros a day (about $15), a bit cheaper than at the hotel.
What to do
Les Escaldes is a fast-developing cosmopolitan city and home of an important thermal center, Le Caldea, which towers over the valley like a modern glass cathedral calling all water worshipers. The name Les Escaldes is derived from the existence of the sulphurous springs that bubble up from the earth’s depths reaching a temperature of 61 degrees C.
Le Caldea focuses on the pleasures of water in all its forms, from steam to ice, from Roman to Japanese culture. Its warm thermal waters, high in sodium and sulphur, are oily like thermal plankton and are promoted as having a healing effect. Le Caldea offers a number of services from the general admission pass of 30 euros ($38) for three hours in the Thermal Leisure Center to the more exclusive Caldea Club which starts at 69 euros (about $75). This time we bought three-day passes to the Thermal Leisure Area, the cheapest and most basic offering, which includes the indoor and outdoor pools, Roman baths, steam sauna, aqua massage, Icelandic bath, sirocco bath of hot air and Jacuzzis all in a mountain environment. Three hours was plenty of time to enjoy the water and sunbathe. We were advised to come in the morning to avoid the crowds as Le Caldea is extremely popular with tour groups, families, and people of all ages. If one wants a more serene experience, then the Club is the next level, providing a steam Aztec bath, a grapefruit bath, water beds, aquatic bar and terrace with supplementary services, such as massage, hydrothermal beauty and anti-cellulite treatments at extra cost.
Two years ago we took the plunge and bought a day pass at the Club, which included massages and mud bath.(Be prepared to take off your swimsuit and don a disposable, one-size-fits-all thong.) We found the experience restful and professional, and we enjoyed being pampered in a luxurious, private setting. For prices, reservations, and information check the Caldea Web site (www.caldea.ad). Le Caldea also has a restaurant and a number of small boutiques.
Shopping
Avinguday de Mertzell winds from Andorra la Vella to Les Escaldes and is characterized by bustling, commercial vitality that one may find either exciting or irritating. This main artery is lined with shops that sell electronics, Havana cigars, Philippine tobacco, professional sports equipment, fashion, fine jewelry, cosmetics and perfume, as well as hotels, restaurants and an occasional grocery. The streets are clogged with noisy traffic; the sidewalks are filled with window shoppers and strollers along with serious shoppers who come from all over Europe to avoid sales taxes and the VAT (valued added tax).
We found particularly attractive sports equipment for hiking, biking, camping, fishing and climbing. The quality is outstanding, and the prices reasonable, often cheaper than in the States or in France. Perfume and cosmetics are also a bargain, as well as shoes, watches and jewelry.
Hiking
Some of the best hiking and skiing is in the Les Escaldes area. The paths are readily accessible, and there is no need to drive to the trailheads, whereas the ski slopes are typically 11 to 20 kilometers away. We did two challenging hikes and enjoyed them both, although the terrain was difficult at times and the weather hot. We purchased a detailed map at a sports shop and managed to make do along with a compass, which is a necessity. The trails are numbered, color-coded and well-marked. Yellow dots indicate local trails, whereas the red and white ones are more established and cross into France and Spain. Much of this information is available on the Internet along with the location of convenient stopping points. They don’t have restrooms, but they do provide shade, room to eat and sleep, and sometimes even supplies, such as trash bags, food and toilet paper left behind by fellow hikers. Although we were well equipped, we still managed to get lost on our first hike. Unlike the Rockies, the trails are not dirt but often rough stone, cobblestone, or loose stone so we we purchased some Leki titanium poles as walking sticks for 58 euros (about $65), roughly half the U.S. price.
We ran across occasional hikers on both days but most of the time had nature all to ourselves with plenty of dramatic scenery. We saw rivers, waterfalls, meadows, forests and magnificent panoramic views along with a few herds of cows with bell collars.
Tips
Driving is on the right side of the road. Gas is very expensive in France and Spain (around $5.85 a gallon) but much cheaper in Andorra (about $3.75). Arrange to fill up the tank in Andorra to cut costs. If driving is not your thing, buses from France to Andorra leave from the railway stops of L’Hospitalet, La Tour de Caro and Ax-les-Thermes. Buses leave Spain from Barcelona, Burgos, Madrid, Tarragona, Tuy, Valladolid, and Azragoza.
Sports equipment is high quality and less expensive in Andorra so come with an empty suitcase (or buy more luggage) and purchase shoes, clothing, backpacks, sleeping bags and tents on site.
As far as we know, there is no fine dining in Andorra, and restaurants are pricey, although there is American fast food, such as McDonald’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and Burger King, which offer home delivery!
At any rate, we opted to buy our own food at grocery stores and make picnics either on our hotel balcony or in the mountains. The produce is fresh and delicious; all alcohol is MUCH cheaper in Andorra than in Europe or the States. We were content with ham and cheese sandwiches on fresh baguettes with avocados and tomatoes, sweet, ripe peaches and nectarines and chilled Pescador, a crisp, bubbly white wine, the Andorran version of champagne. We never could find a bag of ice so we always got a pitcher of ice from our hotel bar during the day.
The rhythm of life is much different in Europe than in the United States. In general, stores open around 10 a.m. and close from 2 to 4 p.m. and reopen again until around 8 p.m. Typically lunch runs from 1 to 2:30 p.m., with dinner in no earlier than 8.
Andorra’s cultural or artistic activity is limited, and if you’re looking for old-world grace and elegance you’ll be disappointed. A number of smaller picturesque villages may be worth visiting if you long to escape the clamor of Les Escaldes and Andorra la Vella. In addition there are some museums, such as the National Automobile Museum, the Andorran Postal Museum and the Areny-Plandolit House Museum located outside the capital that we did not see but might be interesting. It also is possible to visit three refurbished historical houses in three different villages that give an idea of traditional life in Andorra prior to the 20th century. Information is available at www.andorra.ad, www.museus.ad, and at the Tourist Center.
Le Tour de France is broadcast live from France in Andorra, so we could follow it in the comfort of our hotel room during the siesta hours. None of it is translated into English, but it’s still the best authentic coverage one can find beyond being there.
Skiing season begins around December and lasts through March. Hiking season begins after the snowfall and continues through October. Andorra’s village festivals are usually from July to September. Hotels are fullest in July and August and for skiing.
If mountain hiking is too strenuous, try taking the cami, a winding cobblestone path that gives a birds-eye view of Les Escaldes and Andorra la Vella from clean neighborhoods of apartments, houses and tobacco fields. The locals use the path for dog walking, jogging and leisurely strolls. The nearest access point for us was just a block away from our hotel.
The population of Andorra, comprised mostly of Spanish followed by Andorran and French, speak Catalan, Spanish and French. Most service personnel in hotels and shops understand and speak some English but it’s wise to know a few basic greetings in Catalan.
Using the telephone is not cheap. To make a call one must purchase a telephone card for six euros (about $8) which is good for 100 units. Placing a call to the U.S. will cost three units plus another one every six seconds! A rather complicated, expensive system that we eventually gave up on.
Internet access is no joy, either. We finally located a “cyber-café” with Wi-Fi, but it crashed on us repeatedly. Expect to pay about $4 an hour for access with moderate speed.
Andorra is a place that has grown on us, making each new visit a journey of discovery. But it’s not for everyone; the juxtaposition between urban development and nature may be too jarring for some to make the strenuous trip worth the effort.
Julia Lauer-Chéenne is an artist, world traveler and professor of language at UNL. She may be reached at jcheenne@earthlink.net.
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