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Joel Stoltenow, L, hold his niece Rebecca Ziems as they get lunch at the China King Buffet at 2900 N. 70th on Tuesday, June 8, 2004. Joel Stoltenow has just moved to Lincoln and he is the new basketball coach at Lincoln Lutheran.
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  • China King reigns with its buffet-style food

    Friday, Jun 11, 2004 - 12:16:34 am CDT

    BYL. KENTWOLGAMOTT

    In October, new owners took over the building at 70th and Adams streets that had long housed Mister Panda, one of Lincoln's first Chinese buffets.

    China King, a new Chinese buffet, took Mister Panda's place.

    Eight months later, manager Liqin Weng says, many people still don't know about the change.

    "We did develop a regular clientele,"Weng said. "But this is a pretty residential area. There's still some word that needs to go around since it's not on a main street like 27th or 48th."

    Those who were familiar with Mister Panda won't notice any major changes in the restaurant's dining room. The space still has the same combination of brown booths and tables and three buffet tables, two containing hot dishes and one with cold salad ingredients, cocktail shrimp and desserts.

    "We did some renovations,"Weng said. "But it's mostly in updating the kitchen, which really needed some work."

    China King doesn't offer as many choices as some of its competitors. But fewer dishes means fresher food, and the selections rotate from lunch to dinner and day to day.

    Ming Lin, China King's chef, has been cooking for 20 years and will take a chance with the daily offerings. For example, Monday's lunch buffet featured some delicious roast chicken in a flavorful, sweet hoisin sauce. Tuesday evening, that dish was nowhere to be found, replaced by a very delicate lemon chicken.

    "The chef likes to experiment,"Weng said. "If he sees something, if it pops into his mind, he'll try the entree out."

    In the evenings, China King becomes a combination American/Chinese buffet, aiming at the family audience.

    "We try to be more kid-oriented in the evenings, with things like pizza," Weng said,"so that everybody in the family can enjoy, not just the adults or just the kids."

    Those kid-oriented offerings include pizza, mozzarella sticks and similar appetizers along with corn and other vegetables prepared "American" style.

    Kids who don't go for Chinese cuisine are also likely to enjoy one of China King's other unique offerings. During the evening, the restaurant features grilled sirloin steak rather than the crab legs that are the attraction at other Chinese buffets.

    The Omaha Steaks meat is about a quarter-inch thick, grilled to medium/medium well and cut into small pieces - about 2 inches by 3 inches. The steak I sampled was very tasty and provided a surprising contrast to the cashew chicken, almond pork and other more expected Chinese dishes.It does, however, present a cutting challenge for those of us who eat with chopsticks.

    China King's dessert offerings are a little different, too.In addition to the requisite soft-serve ice cream machine, cake and almond cookies found at every Chinese buffet, China King features cream puffs and some particularly delicious macaroons.

    I was also impressed with the buffet's soup offerings.Both the hot-and-sour soup and egg-drop soup were nicely flavored and superior to those I've experienced at similar eateries.

    The prices at China King are very reasonable. The lunch buffet is $5.60 for adults, $5.15 for seniors and 45 cents per year for those ages 3 to 11. Dinner prices are $7.90 for adults, $7.15 for students and seniors and 55 cents per year for the 3-to-11 crowd. The restaurant also offers an extensive carry-out menu and will prepare special-ordered dishes.

    There are plenty of Chinese buffets in Lincoln.But China King sets itself apart by being a neighborhood eatery, with its family orientation and with its sometimes surprising fare, making a solid option for those looking for good all-you-can-eat fare.

    Reach L.Kent Wolgamott at 473-7244 or kwolgamott@;journalstar.com.

    China King

    2900 N. 70th St.

    Atmosphere: Casual

    Specialty: Chinese buffet

    Payment: Cash, checks, Visa, Mastercard, Discover, American Express

    Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

    Buffet hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 4:30-9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday

    Phone: (402) 467-2888

    Notes: No smoking

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